The mid skin fade

Halfway between the ear and the temple, which is the widest part of your head and therefore the most room a gradient can have. It is the hardest of the four heights to get wrong.

bbarburs 5 min read

Why this is the default

A fade is a gradient, and a gradient needs room. A mid fade starts the climb at roughly the widest point of your skull, so there is more surface between bare skin and full length than at any other height. More surface means a softer transition, which means a smaller margin for error.

That is the practical reason it is the most-cut fade in most shops, and the reason it is the right answer when you do not have a strong opinion. A high fade is a choice about how you want to look. A mid fade is just a good haircut.

It is also the height that survives being cut by a barber who has never cut your hair before. There is no version of a mid fade that goes badly wrong in the way a high one can when a stranger reads "high" more literally than you meant it.

Against the two either side of it

What you give up and gain by moving a height
Against a low fade Against a high fade
Contrast Noticeably sharperSofter, less of a statement
Upkeep A week sooner back in the chairAbout a week longer between cuts
Grown out Looks unkempt soonerStill reads as a haircut at three weeks
Face shapes Works on more of themWorks on more of them
Office More obvious, still fine anywhereConsiderably less of a decision

Read down the last column and the case makes itself: the mid gives up very little to the high and gains back a week. The only thing it does not do is make a statement, and if that is what you came for, go high knowingly rather than by accident.

Who it suits

Nearly everyone, which is an unsatisfying answer, so here is the useful version — the cases where it is the best choice rather than merely a safe one:

  • A long or narrow face. It keeps some width at the sides, which a high fade removes and a long face misses.
  • A hairline that has gone back at the corners. A mid starts below the recession rather than drawing a line through it.
  • Hair you part. There is still enough length at the side for the part to sit against, which is exactly what a high fade takes away.
  • A first skin fade where you do want to see the difference. A low fade can be so subtle that you wonder what you paid for. A mid is unmistakably a fade.

What to say

Four words and a gesture: "skin fade, mid, blended, and point."

The gesture matters more than the word. "Mid" is not a measurement and shops disagree about it by a couple of centimetres, which is enough to change the haircut. Touch the point on your own head where you want the skin to stop being skin, and the ambiguity disappears.

Then say what the top is doing in a length or a style, and when you can come back. That is the whole conversation.

What it costs

Height does not change the price; the blend is the work.

Fade work listed on barburs, cheapest first
ServiceTimePrice

Expect to be back in the chair every two to three weeks. That is a week better than a high fade and a week worse than a low one, which is the trade this whole height is about.

Common questions

What exactly is a mid fade?

One where the shaved section stops roughly halfway between the top of the ear and the temple. There is no standard measurement, so the word gets you close and pointing at your own head gets you the rest of the way.

Is a mid fade better than a high fade?

It is more forgiving and lasts about a week longer, which makes it the better default. A high fade is better if you specifically want the contrast to be the first thing people notice. Neither is harder to cut than the other.

How often does a mid skin fade need redoing?

Every two to three weeks. The shaved section goes to stubble before the top looks untidy, so many people book a cheaper line-up in between and a full cut monthly.

Can I go higher next time?

Yes, and it is the sensible order to do it in. Taking a fade up is a couple of minutes of work on hair that is already short. Bringing one down means waiting for it to grow, which is three weeks or more.

Does a mid fade work with curly hair?

Well, and it is often the better choice than a high one for tight curls because it leaves more density behind the ear for the curl to sit against. If you want the sides properly tight with volume kept on top, look at a burst fade instead.