What a retwist actually is
Locs are formed hair below and loose new growth above. A retwist takes that new growth at the root and twists it in the direction the loc already runs, so the new hair joins the loc rather than fluffing out around it.
Only the root. The body of the loc is mature hair and nothing is done to it. Anyone proposing to retwist the whole length is proposing to unravel and redo work your hair has spent years on.
On a full head it is a multi-hour appointment, which is the first thing to plan around.
How often, and why less is usually right
The common schedule is every four to six weeks. The better one for most heads is every six to eight, and here is the reason.
Every retwist puts tension on the root. Locs are heavy, the root is the only thing holding the weight, and repeated tension on the same point is the mechanism behind thinning roots and, eventually, locs that snap off. It is traction, and it is cumulative and not reversible.
Signs you are going too often:
- Roots that look thinner than the body of the loc.
- Soreness or tenderness for a day or two afterwards. Normal is tight for an hour, not sore for two days.
- Small white bulbs at the root when a loc comes away — that is hair pulled out, not broken.
- A loc that has gone noticeably thin at one point along its length.
Frizz between retwists is not damage. It is what happens between retwists, and locs with some root frizz are generally healthier than locs with none.
What to ask for, and what to refuse
Ask for: a retwist at the root only, interlocked or palm-rolled depending on what your locs were started with, and as little gel as will do the job.
Be wary of: heavy wax or beeswax products. They do not wash out of locs, they build up inside them, and the end point is locs that have to be cut off. A light water-soluble gel or nothing at all is the standard now, and any loctician will tell you the same.
Refuse: being put under a hooded dryer while soaking wet with product sealed in. Locs dry from the outside in and a loc that is damp at the core for days is the cause of the musty smell people find mysterious. Ask for the time to dry properly, or go home and air dry.
On tension: say "not too tight" before it starts. This is not being difficult. A loctician cannot feel your scalp and the only information they have is what you tell them.
Palm roll, interlock, or leave it
| How | Lasts | Trade-off | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Palm roll | Root twisted between the palms | 2–4 weeks | Gentle; comes loose sooner, especially in rain |
| Interlock | Loc pulled through its own root with a tool | 6–10 weeks | Holds far longer; harder on the root if done too often or too tight |
| Freeform | Nothing. Separate by hand, wash, leave | n/a | No tension at all; a thicker, less uniform look |
Mixing methods on the same head is fine and common — interlocking the hairline, where locs pull hardest, and palm rolling the rest is a sensible arrangement that plenty of locticians will suggest.
What it costs
It is among the highest prices on the whole menu and the easiest to justify: you are booking most of an afternoon of one person's time, and length and density change how much of it you need.
| Service | Time | Price |
|---|
Ring ahead if your locs are long or very dense — a price quoted for a standard head is a starting point, not a cap, and any good loctician will say so before you sit down rather than after.
Common questions
How often should I retwist my locs?
Every six to eight weeks suits most heads better than the four to six people often default to. Each retwist puts tension on the root, and that tension is cumulative — thinning roots are far more common than frizzy ones.
How long does a loc retwist take?
Several hours for a full head, depending on length and density.
How much does a loc retwist cost?
It is priced by the hours involved rather than as a haircut.
Is retwisting bad for your locs?
Doing it too often is. The retwist itself is fine; repeated tension on the same root is what thins it. Soreness lasting into the next day, roots thinner than the loc body, or white bulbs on shed locs all mean too tight or too frequent.
Can I retwist my own locs?
Palm rolling your own is very doable and plenty of people do. The back is the hard part, and interlocking is genuinely easy to get wrong in a way that costs you hair, so that one is worth paying for.